The buzz you get from sending a problem on a wall — complicated or relatively simple, indoors or out — is what’s helping to make rock climbing one of the hottest trends in fitness.
Along with the sense of satisfaction derived from pulling off a route you hadn’t been able to complete before, your whole body gets a killer workout that pumps up not only your forearms, but targets your core, upper body, legs, and hands.
A perfect-fitting set of rock shoes, however, is the one of the first pieces of gear beginners need to buy before getting up on the wall.
Especially if you’re starting out in a climbing gym, which will have all of the other gear ready to go.
How to Shop for Rock Climbing Shoes
To find the best rock climbing shoes for you — whether you’re a man or woman — you’ll need to take a few factors into consideration. Mainly: your skill level and where you’ll be climbing.
Newbs should go for an all-around shoe at first, with a neutral, or almost flat sole that’s similar to a regular shoe, especially if you’re starting out in the gym.
“A more relaxed shoe is more forgiving of how you use it. For a beginner, that’s a good thing,” says Zahan Billimoria, a mountain guide certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association who is based in Jackson Hole, WY.
And if you think you’ll be climbing only occasionally, neutral beginner shoes are a good choice.
Intermediate and advanced climbers
If you’ve logged some experience as a climber you’ll want to step up to a more radical shoe that offers a more down-turned shape, or camber, for better grip on slabs and cracks.
Such shoes are typed moderate or aggressive, the latter boasting an even more pronounced camber for more challenging faces.
“More aggressive shoes are going to focus more energy into the big toe,” says Billimoria. “They’re going to need to be tight, and they’ll curl your foot down to create more force.
Fairly athletic people who climb in the gym regularly will likely progress quickly, and will probably want something with more camber fairly soon after starting, he says. “In a gym setting where even intermediate routes can be steep — because of the good holds — more aggressive shoes will be beneficial.”
How to ensure the right fit
When heading to the store for a new pair of climbing shoes, there are some tips you should consider to ensure the best fit.
Go in the late afternoon, after your feet have swelled up a bit throughout the day.
The fit should be tight but not painfully cramped, else you won’t want to climb in them for very long. You want to go for a comfortable snugness.
After you buy them, if your shoes have more traditional laces (newer models feature more convenient Velcro closures), remove them and and wear the laceless shoes around the house to help break them in.
Re-lace them after they’ve formed to your feet some and you’ll get a better, almost bespoke fit.
Best All-Around Rock Climbing Shoes
Following are some great choices, no matter your skill level, from some of the top rock climbing shoe brands.
1. Black Diamond Momentum
This neutral shoe in a traditional lace offers great all-day comfort with adjustable fit. The synthetic knit upper allows for lots of breathability and cozy snugness.
2. Five Ten Niad Moccasym
These simple and comfortable shoes have a full leather upper that forms to the shape of your foot over repeated wearing.
Though they are slip-ons with an elastic closure, extra rubber at the toe gives you the ability to hit up both indoor and outdoor routes.
3. La Sportiva Mythos Eco
These classic all-around climbers are back with eco-friendly, 95 percent recycled materials.
The tried-and-true lacing system and leather upper allow for a precise, customized fit over time.
4. Evolv Defy
This shoe features a split tongue and Velcro closure for ease in taking them on or off.
The synthetic, neoprene-like upper and antimicrobial liner help keep them fresh after a long day climbing.
5. Scarpa Force V
This shoe combines a flat last with a softer all-around feel for optimal, all-day comfort but can still perform well on technical pitches.
The stiff and durable rubber outsole edge helps fast-learning beginners suss out foot placement.
Best Performance Rock Climbing Shoes
Whether bouldering in a gym or heading out for multi-pitch climbs on big slabs, there’s something here for you.
6. Scarpa Instinct VS
Perfect for intermediate climbers who want to move from a more neutral shoe to something performance oriented.
It has a slight asymmetry and moderate downturn so it performs well at gyms, out bouldering, or on technical climbs.
7. Five Ten Crawe
Steep climbs will send easily with these semi-aggressive shoes.
The snug, sock-like fit and concave toe box help in pulling off sketchy, technical moves while still being a great bouldering performer.
8. Black Diamond Zone
An aggressive camber and minimal midsole means enhanced sensitivity on hard, steep climbs.
The Velcro strap and engineered knit upper make for a secure, comfortable fit.
9. Evolv Geshido
Built on an asymmetrical form, this rock shoe has a full-length plastic midsole, making it great for enhanced control on tiny ledges and traversing technical sequences.
The two-strap Velcro closure is a cinch to use and the vegan synthetic leather upper won’t stretch out as much after repeated climbs.
10. La Sportiva Genius
This high-performance shoe has an aggressive camber and special No-Edge tech that lets your foot stick closer to the rock.
A fast-lacing system and stretchy synthetic upper make it easy to take on or off.